I wish I could claim to be an early adopter, but I’ve never managed to be on the cutting edge of much of anything. It’s one of the many downsides to procrastination: Typically, by the time I get around to picking up on the latest, greatest thing, the cool crowd is on to something else. Fortunately for me and my bad habits, though, there are a few items that defy the average food-trend lifespan. Burgers. Bacon. Pizza.
I love a slice as much as the next New Yorker: I’ve put in time waiting on line at Grimaldi’s and Lombardi’s and coughed up the dough (hee) for a pie at the late (overpriced) Una Pizza Napoletana, but I hadn’t begun to delve into the offerings of city’s newer artisans until recently. Only a year or three late, I finally got around to trying out Motorino.
Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise—pizza is great breakfast food. I met up with friends for brunch a few weeks ago, and with a group of five, we sampled several different versions to prove it.
First up, the only official breakfast pie on the menu: eggs, basil, pancetta, and fior di latte and Parmesan cheeses. Classic toppings to be sure, but I have to admit that I kind of liked this iteration just a tiny bit more. Hands down, though, Motorino’s dough is some of the best I’ve ever had—airy and chewy, dense and light, all at once. Great, great stuff.
Next, the classic margherita. I didn’t want to deny the vegetarians a proper meal, so I didn’t taste this one, but it got rave reviews for perfectly charred crust, tangy tomatoes, and puddles of cheese.
The soppressata picante was an instant favorite, oozing with cheese, greasy sausage, chile flakes and garlic slices, with just a smattering of basil to cut through the oil. In a word, perfection.
On the opposite end of the spectrum was this gem. With two cheeses, earthy Brussels sprouts and salty-smoky pancetta, this was the closest thing to a salad on the table that day, and a great combination of flavors to boot.
So, to recap: The dough? Amazing. The toppings? More than solid. But the best endorsement I can give for Motorino? It warranted a return visit less than a week later. Call it making up for lost time; I may be slow, but I get there eventually.
319 Graham Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11211